First look at Provence & a peek inside the former Vatican City!

Bleary eyed and jet-lagged, I stumbled out of the train station and was presented with Avignon’s majestic outer walls. The sand colored towers and snaking walls covered in vines, feel like something out of Disneyland… except for that they were constructed in 1300.

Quick History

In the 14th Century, Avignon was like Vatican City 2.0.

Rome was not so safe and the French pope was homesick, so he decided to create a second Vatican City of sorts. Between 1309 and 1377, there were 7 French popes in a row and they resided and ruled in this small town.

Similar to The Vatican, Avignon wasn’t even considered France. The land was purchased from a Countess of Provence and it wasn’t until the French Revolution in 1791 that it became French territory again.

omg, Scandalous!

Same as today, all popes were male.

Turns out that along the line, one Pope pulled a Mrs. Doubtfire. No one knew that HE was a SHE until the dear Pope’s water broke and she went in to labor.

From that pope onward, the elected pope would sit on an official chair with a hole in the seat.

A designated cardinal would reach under the chair and make sure all necessary male pope parts were there.

To explore

Walking tour of the Palias des Papes:

Each Pope added onto the impressive structure to create the gardens, towers, and multi-wing palais standing today.

With your entrance ticket, you receive an iPad that let’s you “step back in time.” After orienting it inside each room by pointing it at a patterned box, it shows on the screen what the room looked like in the 1300s.

dance on the Bridge of Avignon:

One of the first songs that French children learn in school is a song about this ½ bridge. People come from all around the world to sing and dance on it and you’ll likely hear visitors humming it as they walk beside you.

There is a legend that a shepherd boy hear the voice of God telling him to go down to the town and have the town build a bridge. He was mocked in court and told to prove it to them by lifting up the enormous cornerstone and putting it into the river. He walked outside, plopped a stone that no amount of men could collectively lift into the river, and became known as Saint Benezet henceforth. To this day, his body lays at rest in a small chapel under the bridge.

*If you are a student bring your ID for a steep discount for both tours!

To Taste

La Cour d’Honneur

Casual
Mostly outdoor seating in a private patio amongst ancient oak trees
Decent wine list
Super affordable 3 course meals

Restaurant Christian Etienne

Not casual
Michelin star restaurant flush against the Palais des Papes
Open air, upstairs patio dotted with stained glass and kumquat trees
Wine list of rare & unique vintages!

The whole night I could just imagine the Pope and his court feasting right next door!

They have one seating for the evening. Similar to many French restaurants, a reservation means that the table is yours for the night. We arrived at 7:30 and did not leave until well after midnight.

You only make 2 choices the entire night. Your wine and your menu track. There was the “Tomatoe Menu” and the “Feast of the Pope.” Easy enough? No, there’s a catch! The whole table has to agree and do the same thing! Honestly, I didn’t understand what was on either and just followed the crowd.